IoW Salt Corrosion Inspection Checklist
Rate each area during your viewing — get a summary verdict below
Chassis railsCritical
The main structural rails running front to rear underneath the car. Tap and press — should feel solid.
Sills (inner and outer)Critical
Below each door. Press the outer sill — should feel rigid, not flex or crumble. Inner sill is structural.
Floor panCritical
Under the carpets and beneath the car. Look for perforation, especially driver's side.
Brake pipes and fuel linesCritical
Small diameter metal pipes under the car. Should be clean — no flaking rust or corrosion.
Suspension subframe
Subframe, wishbones, and anti-roll bar mountings. Surface rust is normal; pitting or structural loss is not.
Front wheel arches
Behind any arch liner. Debris collects here and holds moisture against the metal.
Rear wheel arches
The arch lip where the arch meets bodywork. Classic rust spot on older hatchbacks — look for bubbling.
Door bottoms
Bottom edge of each door. Water sits here; paint cracks; rust starts from inside.
Boot floor and spare wheel well
Lift the boot carpet. Check for dampness, bubbling, or perforation in the spare wheel area.
Exhaust system
Entire exhaust from manifold to tailpipe. Heavy rust or holes are an MOT fail.
Windscreen base
Steel at the base of the windscreen aperture. Rust here spreads under the screen seal.
Battery terminals
White or green deposits indicate salt air corrosion. Negligible if cleaned but shows how well car is maintained.
This checklist is a guide, not a professional inspection. For high-value purchases, always get an independent mechanic or RAC/AA inspection. See our full corrosion guide for detailed explanations of each area.
Isle of Wight cars are exposed to coastal salt air year-round — which accelerates rust compared to mainland cars in inland areas. This checklist is designed specifically for island car buyers.
Read the full salt corrosion inspection guide → for detailed explanations and photos of what each area looks like when in good and bad condition.